Culture

March 28, 2009

J-Humor and Excessive Inclusivity

Maybe you've felt it too- you laugh along with your favorite Japanese TV show, get all the jokes, and have a great time watching it, but something doesn't satiate you the way your favorite western show does. Or maybe you're listening to a J-pop album, and love the dulcet voice of the artist, but can't make yourself feel an emotional connection to the song. Something's missing from Japanese humor, and that something is an out-group.

I wrote a little about this before, but modern Western humor is based on an asymmetrical awareness of incongruity in the world. When we watch the Daily Show or the Colbert Report, we feel privy to absurdity that goes over the head of the other side of the congressional aisle. With The Office, we get to laugh at situations the show's characters experience with deadly sobriety (sometimes with Jim and Pam chuckling along with us). Even stand-up comedy has an out-group; it's the guys, real or imagined, that never quite get the punchline, that force laughs just to fit in. Humor is sharing a secret knowledge about the world, a knowledge about something out-of-whack that goes unnoticed by everyone else. With Japanese humor, it's close to impossible not to get the joke, and that's what leads to the empty feeling inside. Japanese humor is about everyone getting it, which necessarily brings it down to the lowest common denominator of intelligence. Japanese game shows are the best example of this, and Tokyo Mango's Lisa Katayama has a great take on them

The host of a real Japanese game show is a politically incorrect, sarcastic man who revels in mild forms of torture and isn't afraid to smack a woman on the head. (The feminist in me battles the light-hearted Japanese humoree every time I watch one.) The contestants are stoic, and driven by the determination not to make a fool of themselves and the desire to win money and/or fame. The show's creators are constantly upping the ante, forcing contestants into grueling, sometimes life-threatening situations. A panel of yappy celebrity commentators and on-screen subtitles emphasize LOL moments and onomatopoeia.

(Don't confuse 'sarcasm' above for dry, sparkly wit, though; it's more along the lines of "Good job!" after a guy screws up, followed by cartoon letters on the screen, a bonk on the head for the loser, and a studio audience in stitches).

Want to see what Lisa's talking about? The clip below is pretty representative:

I was kind of excited when I heard they had started to parody Obama on Japanese TV, but the whole joke is a guy who says "Yes we can" and "Change" in response to anything. It would have been funny if they didn't have it going for weeks on end.

I want to feel 'in' with the shows I watch, and that requires feeling like someone else is 'out.' I need the impression that witty to me will be boring, perplexing, or simply unfunny to someone else, and Japanese humor just doesn't do that for me. That's not to say I don't enjoy myself watching it, it just doesn't fully satiate. At least, that's my feeling based on the media I've seen so far, which has been mainstream dramas and prime-time TV. I'm hoping that somewhere in this land of 180 million people, there's someone poking subtle fun at the establishment, opening jokes in loops and closing them with ten minutes later, jabbing at the social issues of the country at the same time he's making us all laugh. Know anyone like that?

March 04, 2009

Hanko

A hanko is a stamp with your name on it that you use to endorse all sorts of official documents. It's kind of like a signature, but worse, because somebody can beat you up, take it from you, and pretend to be you. It doesn't help that they never check ID for anything here. I had to get a hanko to open a bank account, and got to choose between using one with a Japanese name (huh?) and making a name up. シャックルフォールド, the transliteration of "Shackelford," didn't quite fit on the stamp's tiny head, so I went with シャック (pronounced "shakku"). Whenever I do something more complicated than withdrawing money, they have me stamp tiny, random circles on various pieces of paper, which I suppose proves that I'm me. Man, identity thieves would have a field day in this happy-go-lucky country.

Hanko for sale on display in Shinjuku:
Hanko

Update: Andrew Havill of Google Japan got inspired to write a much better post than this one on Hanko. Go check it out!

And He's Back

Damn, I'm happy to be back in Tokyo. I think Japan's getting to me, because as much as I enjoyed Thailand, the constant vigilance wore me out. My host dad told me to watch out for my wallet when I went, but that was never an issue; the danger in Thailand is that 80% of the people on the street have some scheme in mind for wringing money from the clueless farang tourists, and constantly battling the taxi drivers, street vendors, and shop owners just wears down on you after a little while.

If you ever go to Thailand, follow this rule: never, ever, ever, ever take the suggestion of anyone about anything. Maybe you can ask the guy at your hostel about a good place for Phad Thai, but that's it. The streets of bangkok run on elaborate, transparent tourist-trap schemes, where teams of tuk-tuk drivers, street promoters, and friendly townspeople hand you off from one to the other, using cheap taxi fares or a jovial manner to suck you into tailor shops, expensive longboat rides, the infamous "gem stores," and all manner of money pits. When they're not trying to trick you into giving away your Baht (the awkwardest cash currency in the world), they're accosting you outright, in your face hawking their cheap wares and looking personally hurt if you don't buy them.

Taxis may be three times as much in Tokyo, beer four times, and noodles five to ten times as much , but there's something great about knowing that you can walk into any store you like and be treated like royalty even if you don't buy a single thing. There's something reassuring about knowing that you can hop a train wherever you want, without fighting with your driver until he turns on the meter, or fearing a destination that resembles the place you're trying to go just enough to confuse you.

Don't get me wrong, Thailand was great. Cheap, delicious food, amazing weather, good friends, eating tropical fruit on a white-sand beach- this was a good vacation, and thanks to the strong yen and proximity of Japan, didn't quite leave me broke. I'll put pictures from the trip up soon; Bangkok and Ko Samet are both really photogenic, and the whole tropical vacation thing seems like it's checking off a box on a list of awesome things to do before I die. I'll always have fond memories of Thailand, but one you've experienced Tokyo living, it's hard to want anything else.

February 13, 2009

I'm Not Trying to Cause Any Toraburu

ピクチャ 20 I was looking for an old, cheap wideangle lens for my camera last week, and decided to give Yahoo! auctions a go. They don't have eBay here, so it's the de facto auction site of Japan. I made it through most of the registration, but when I put in my credit card, it rejected it, telling me I should confirm the number and enter it again. I tried the same one a few more times, then a different card, and then another. No matter whether I used Visa or Mastercard, a check card or a credit card, it wouldn't go through.

I sent an email off to support, asking them what was going on. I had called my credit card companies and checked my online statements, so I knew there wasn't any sort of lock or sketchy activity on my card. About a week later, I got an email back from them:

「なお、トラブル対策の一環として、

海外発行された一部のクレジットカード

については、今後においてご登録をお断りしております。」

Which translates to:

"As a precaution against any trouble (phonetically spelling out to-ra-bu-ru in katakana), we have forbidden customers with foreign credit cards from registering with the site." They go on to suggest that I should try paying with a Japanese credit card, as if they give them out without twelve guarantors and a blood sacrifice. It may be doable if you're here long-term, but it's near-impossible for an exchange student.

That's awful thoughtful of them; I certainly see how they'd like to protect innocent little Japanese auctioneers from big, scary gaijin credit cards, but I hope they're ready for me to show up at the Yahoo! headquarters in Roppongi tomorrow, pretending to speak no English and represent the Japanese Foreigner Anti-Defamation League. Anyone want to come with me to film?

Update:

I submitted this to JapanSoc subtitled "Racism at Yahoo! Japan," opening up a big can of protest. I think racism may be a little strong of a term, but I'm not convinced that it's 100% incorrect, either. Unfortunately, with a country as homogeneous as Japan, in terms of nationality, race, employment, and lifestyle, the lines between racism, nationalism, and plain inflexibility blur. Coming from a country that likes to at least frame itself as open and accepting (despite plenty of places that doesn't quite apply), the unapologetic way Japan treats its foreign residents irks me, though it may be overstating it to call it blatant racial discrimination. I expect that reaching a conclusion about what accommodations I expect Japan to make for foreigners may take a bit of time.

February 08, 2009

Ekiben Then and Now

I feel like we've lost something over the years.

Showa4
Buying ‘ekiben’ on the train to Nishiura Onsen, 1960. (Ysbrand Rogge)


Nagoya Ekiben
Buying 'ekiben' before getting on a train to Hida-Takayama, 2009 (Me)


Props for the first photo: Hans Binckmann via Tokyo Photojournalist


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